Archives for category: My Favorites

I’d kind of stopped writing my seasonal favorites, but if there’s any time that the shining stars deserve a shout-out it’s 2020. Here are some of the cool new things and businesses that have been creative and awesome and brought bright spots to a weird year. Maybe they’ll help with your holiday gifts or celebrations!



(In alphabetical order, not playing favorites within the favorites)
Agro Meat Market Looking for lamb or mutton? Craving English-style bangers? This South African-run farm will bring them to your door. (They also now have retail locations in Tbilisi, but I haven’t visited yet). Their products are good quality and the prices are reasonable. Stocking our freezer with their products before the lockdown was one of the smartest things we did.

Bagelin.ge It’s long been a joke among ex-pats that Tbilisi would be perfect if only we could get bagels and Mexican food. Bagelin is taking care of part 1 (actually, the chef makes great Mexican food, too, but only occasionally…keep your eye out). The order in advance and pick-up/delivery model is pandemic-friendly, and the bagels are delicious. They’re just what bagels should be–both traditional and Georgian-inspired flavors. They’ve also got their own spreads and drinks from local microbreweries. Additionally, they value supporting their employees, local agriculture, and good causes like the Transcaucasian Trail. Located within Lokal, listed below.

Chveni Puri is a new bakery in our neighborhood. The brilliance of the place is that it’s a walk-up kiosk, so you don’t have to go inside to buy. Bread is the limiting factor to reducing grocery trips in our house (and I assume many Georgian homes), so it’s particularly suited to 2020. Their bread is also really good, and they sell amazing chocolate buns and whole-grain crackers.

Dighomi Forest Park is different than most of the city’s other big parks. Tbilisi parks tend to be manicured and full of amenities, which can be nice, but Dighomi Forest Park, which is basically just trees and grass with some trails and benches, is a literal breath of fresh air. It’s usually busy, but you can always find a place away from everyone else.

The Great Central Asian Bake-Off #GCABO: A social media baking contest sponsored by the Uzbekistan tourism ambassador and the cookbook writer Caroline Eden to promote her new book Red Sands had people all over the world (myself included) trying their hand at making Central Asian baked goods: non, samsa, peach cake, and bread pudding, as well as a “showstopper” of their choice. The showstoppers were really incredible! Cakes decorated like hats and bus stops and beautiful cookies. Some of my friends participated, too, and it was great fun to try new recipes and see how other people had made them. I learned a lot about Central Asia and had a lot of fun; I’d love to see other countries/cookbook authors steal this idea, and hope we have round 2 next year.

International Georgian Wine Tasting from Eat This! Tours is the best Zoom event I’ve attended. It was well-organized, which is of course key, but what made it really special was that they had wine suppliers in both the US and Georgia, so I was able to attend the event with my parents and some family friends in the US. Baia’s and Gvantsa’s Wines are delicious! Would love to do another event like this (hint,hint if you read this)

Lokal Tbilisi describes itself as a co-working and co-living space, but not just..and the “not just” is where things get interesting. They quickly became the coolest place to hang out, hosting all sorts of fun and interesting events ranging from family dinners cooked by the Bagelin guy, to beer festivals, to lectures on taxes, and everything you can imagine in between. They now host our BookSwap group (and have shelves for those who can’t attend the meetings) and offer a great place to relax and see a friendly face when the restrictions allow. They’ve become a cornerstone of the English-speaking community in Tbilisi. They are meticulous about following the Georgian CDC’s hygiene recommendations so I always felt safe going there when it was allowed, and now that they aren’t allowed to have in-person events, they are using their space to collect charitable donations; keep an eye out for potential online events. If you’re looking for a place to live or work, you should definitely check them out. If not, there’s probably an interesting event going on.

Megobrebi Brewery I discovered them last year, and in February I heard that they offered free tours of the brewery, so some friends and I arranged to visit. That turned out to be one of the last things we did in the old normal. Their beers are creative and delicious, and they’ve been creative through the pandemic, offering deliveries and online homebrewing classes. Their tarragon beer is my favorite, but I think they’re all pretty good and I’m not usually a beer drinker, so that’s quite an endorsement.

Soplidan.ge I was a customer before the pandemic, but they really took the opportunity to expand their offerings and services and make a good company even better. They saved Thanksgiving by having turkey available with no fuss, and they generally have a good assortment of hard-to-find local products (spinach, leeks) and gems from small producers. They also carry the Georgian heritage wheat flour (called lomtagora) that I love, and some very tasty nut butters and goat cheese. Also available on the Wolt Delivery App.

Travel Box (read my whole post here…such a fun and creative way of supporting the domestic tourism industry until international tourists can return)

Wine Junkies Another “box”, this time of Georgian wine and treats. I don’t think we’ve ever had a product we didn’t like in their boxes, and everything is packaged very prettily so it feels like Christmas morning once a month. It’s a great way to explore Georgian food and wine, and they’re supporting small producers making high quality products, something I think we’d all love to see more of! In addition to their regular boxes, they’ve now got a special series of boxes raising money for Dog Organization of Georgia.

my bookshop

Since I’m often asked for book recommendations, I’ve started a list (two actually) on Bookshop.org of books about Georgia and books about the region more generally. They are by nature incomplete–I can only include books available on that site, and I am sticking to things available in English and that I have personally read and liked. If you think something is missing, feel free to reach out–if I haven’t read it yet and you’re willing to get a copy to me, it could make its way there soon! I do plan to keep updating the lists as I work my way through my massive “To Read” pile. Full disclosure, if you buy books through the link, I will get a small commission; you’re of course welcome to make note of my recommendations and buy the books elsewhere. I have also updated the links in my book reviews, where possible. Happy reading!

As restaurants in Tbilisi start to reopen, here is some inspiration for the tastiest, coolest, freshest salads in the city. (No guarantees these exact dishes are still on current menus, though).

A collection of my Twitter posts on the best salads in Tbilisi. (#bestsaladsoftbilisi)

I LOVE a good salad; it might even be in my top 5 favorite foods. A good salad has many different toppings and a well-paired dressing. It can be a riot of different colors, flavors, and textures. A bad salad, on the other hand, is one of the saddest dishes there is. Here are the places doing it well. (In no particular order)

CoffeeLab’s seasonal salad.

In summer the oranges are replaced by nectarines.
Just the right balance of sweet and sour, creamy and crunchy.

IMG_20190517_135337

Tomato Salad from Salobie Bia

Perfectly lives up to their tagline of “unpretentious Georgian food”, simple Georgian ingredients put together perfectly. Oh so delicious!

IMG_20190522_195025

 Blue Cheese, Grilled Apple, and Walnut at Cafe Gallery.

Great combination!

IMG_20190530_125908

Warm salad with wild garlic from Culinarium Khasheria

(something similar on the menu at Cafe Littera, as well).
Unique and delicious!

D7_PKDYX4AIizHJ.jpg large

Spinach and orange salad from Chemo Kargo Beer Factory 

Though good, this was the weakest dish we ordered there. The whole menu is creative and delicious. Surprised I haven’t heard more buzz about this place! Get the rye adjaruli with adjika compound butter.

IMG_20190817_193751 (1)

Chicken Caesar Salad from CoffeeLab

Also contains some sort or warm, delicious, peppery pork product.
Pleasant surprise! (But not for people who don’t eat pork)

IMG_20190618_132619

Spinach with dates, cream cheese, and fried spring onions at Lolita.
Solid, but not as interesting as it sounds.

IMG_20190612_193310

Unknown vegetable salad/pkhali at Amra.

Neither I nor the Georgians had heard the word on the menu before, but the waitress said. “No, it’s beets”. And some greens. Something is pickled. With walnut sauce. Refreshing! (Determined by Twitter to probably be kohlrabi).
kohlrabi

Chicken Salad from Mazaki 

Looks like the picture on the menu! Super fresh greens and crispy veggies, nice light Asian dressing. Chicken a little too soy-sauce-y/salty for me, but good texture, and good with the dressing.

mazaki

Chickpea, Beet, Bulgarian pepper and mizuna from Lolita (via Wolt)

Didn’t notice the peppers, but delicious anyway. Chickpeas perfectly cooked, and just the right amount of tang to the dressing. Might be some French-fried onions in there, too

lolita

These aren’t the fanciest, most impressive places in Tbilisi, and they aren’t necessarily the most diverse, but these are the places I keep going back to due to convenience, tastiness and/or tradition. I can’t say I’m enough of a regular that the staff recognize me (well, not at most places), but these are the places where I’ve tried enough things that I don’t have to look at the menu to know what I want and I keep going back for more of it. They may not be the most iconic Tbilisi places or have typical Georgian food, but they’ve definitely got my stamp of approval!

Coffee LAB
The place: I suppose it’s more Nina who’s a regular here, but I’ve tagged along often enough to know the place, too. Great coffee and a nice affordable and fresh menu. The view into the treetops of the park from the top floor is lovely and peaceful.
What I order: chicken wrap (or mushroom sandwich), oreo cheesecake (which is served in more pudding form, but amazing anyway), tall espresso with milk

Culinarium: Khasheria
The place: An after-banya tradition with the girls! Modern, delicious takes on hearty traditional Georgian dishes.
What I order: 
hot salad, chicken, beef cheeks, whole wheat bread, dips, house wine

Dunkin’ Donuts
The place:
A very popular American transplant, Georgian Dunkin’ Donuts also makes some really good Georgian pastries! It seems to be the only place left in town for a bagel (I always find the donuts themselves a bit underwhelming., though) Also a good place to pop in and use the toilet when you’re running around town.
What I order: New York bagel, lobiani, pumpkin spice latte

Entree
The place:
When I first came to Tbilisi, this local chain was one of the few places with WiFi, and I spent a LOT of time here. Not the case anymore, but still a good place to pop in for breakfast or a snack on the run.
What I order: Oranais, chocolate and almond croissant (on the rare occasion they have it), chia pudding, avocado and imitation crab salad, latte

Literaturuli Cafe
The place: Another favorite from way back when, and another bookstore cafe.
What I order: lobiani

Pelmeni 1
The place:
A hole-in-the-wall of a place in a parking lot across the street from Isani metro station. The food is fantastic and cheap, but unfortunately the smokers have overtaken the formerly-non-smoking section.
What I order: uralskij pelmeni, hand-cut french fries

Ronny’s Pizza
The place:
Georgia’s best American pizza place, which has recently added a few locations. They also deliver.
What I order: Wild West (barbecue chicken and roasted garlic) pizza, root beer, Megobari brewing beer

Sakhachapure #1
The place:
A local chain that my friend from Batumi proclaimed the best adjaruli outside of Adjara, with many convenient locations. Also, props to them for making a dessert khachapuri–it took too long!
What I order: adjaruli khachapuri, “house dessert” (basically Nutella khachapuri), Laghidze water

Seoul
The place:
Delicious Korean food conveniently located around the corner from one of my work locations. I’ve never been to Korea, but I assume the food is pretty good as the place is usually full of Koreans.
What I order: bibimbap (comes with soup and kimchi), tea

Tashir Pizza
The place:
An Armenian chain that has recently expanded to Tbilisi (mostly in shopping malls). Though “pizza” is in the name, I’ve always ordered from the sushi menu, and I haven’t been disappointed (remember, though, that I’m a Midwesterner, so my sushi experience may differ from yours).
What I order: sushi with smoked salmon and avocado

I wanted to do a series of “The Bests”, but I realized that referring to my absolute favorite lobiani (Georgian bean bread) as “The Best Lobiani” could be interpreted as an insult to traditional lobiani.  As I spend more and more time in Tbilisi, I’m developing go-to places for particular Georgian foods, so I’ve expanded my series of favorites.  Once again, my favorite khachapuri is a bit off the beaten path, so calling it “The Best” is a little unfair. (But I do think it’s among the best)

Alani's Ossetian Khachapuri

Alani’s Ossetian Khachapuri

I absolutely love this Ossetian-style khachapuri from the resturant Alani in Abanotubani.  It’s the only place I’ve seen Ossetian khachapuri on offer, but it’s really delicious.  The defining characteristic of Ossetian khachapuri is tlhat the cheese is combined with mashed potatoes.  My friend G pointed out that this was probably initially a money-saving technique, but I find that it makes the cheese gooeier and creamier, while simultaneously cutting some of the cloyingness and saltiness of regular Imeruli khachapuri.

Alani is located at 1 Gorgasali Street, very near the baths, making it a popular post-bath watering hole.  The restaurant is divided into two separate areas that share a kitchen.  Downstairs is the restaurant proper, which features a DJ and dancing (a more traditional Georgian restaurant experience).  Upstairs is the “Beer Bar” which serves the full menu, and is quieter.  It also has a nice series of “coupe” private dining compartments that are great for a small group.  Prices are reasonable (an Ossetian khachapuri with 8 slices costs 6 GEL), and the food is good, though the service is decidedly Georgian.

I wanted to do a series of “The Bests”, but I realized that referring to my absolute favorite lobiani (Georgian bean bread) as “The Best Lobiani” could be interpreted as an insult to traditional lobiani.  I love traditional lobiani, and can tell you many good places to pick some up, but in my opinion the best lobiani is at the Café Literaturuli chain.  Traditional lobiani looks much like khachapuri, and is just filled with beans rather than cheese, but as you can see, Literaturuli does things a bit differently—and isn’t it pretty!

Cafe Literaturuli’s lovely lobiani (and latte)

In my opinion, all the top-shelf lobianebi will have a flaky pastry-like crust.  Literaturuli’s version accomplishes this beautifully and the final result is a well-nigh croissant-like pastry filled with beans.  Literaturuli also pays a bit more attention to the filling than many places do.  A bit of coriander is traditional in the filling, but many places just moosh up some beans and coriander, perhaps throw in a bit of onion, and call it a day.  This can result in a rather dry piece of bread.  Literaturuli’s bean filling is always a good consistency, with the added bonus that they seem to caramelize the onions first, making the flavors meld together very nicely.

Literaturuli is a chain of cafes locatedin cities throughout Georgia, with branches on Pekini and Chardeni streets in Tbilisi (and maybe others).  They combine a bookstore with a coffeeshop/cafe—the coffees are good (they can even make some drinks decaf!), the cakes are pretty, and the lobiani is excellent.  They carry an excellent selection of Georgian and Russian books, a passable selection of English books, and the odd book in other European languages, too.  Overall, the atmosphere is lovely.  The prices here are more expensive than a street vendor (the simplest place to procure lobiani), but far lower than at other similar European-style cafes.  A piece of lobiani will set you back 3 GEL, and a latte costs 5.50.  Enjoy!